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TEMPO.CO, Jakarta - Carstensz Pyramid, located in the Jayawijaya Mountains, Papua, has gained attention recently. Two Indonesian climbers, Lilie Wijayati Poegiono and Elsa Laksono, tragically passed away on March 1, 2025. It is suspected that both lost their lives due to hypothermia.
This tragic event adds to the long list of casualties on Carstensz Pyramid. From September 2024 to March 2025, four climbers have already lost their lives on this mountain. The two previous climbers were from Surabaya and China.
This tragedy demonstrates the extreme challenges faced by climbers who aim to conquer the peak of Carstensz. Nevertheless, despite its difficulties, Carstensz Pyramid remains an attraction for climbers.
So, what is Carstensz Pyramid like? Let's explore its history and unique facts to learn more about it.
One of the Seven Summits
Carstensz, also known as Puncak Jaya, is in the Jayawijaya Mountains, Papua. This mountain is the highest peak in Indonesia, Australia, and Oceania, with an elevation of 4,884 meters above sea level.
This peak is also one of the three famous peaks in the Papua mountains. The three peaks are Puncak Jaya (Carstensz Pyramid, 4,884 m, 16,023 ft), Puncak Mandala (4,640 m, 15,223 ft), and Puncak Trikora (4,730 m, 15,518 ft).
Carstensz Pyramid is also recognized as one of the Seven Summits, the highest peaks in the world. These tallest peaks represent each continent.
According to Britannica, the World Seven Summits consist of Kilimanjaro in Africa, Mount Elbrus in Europe, Denali in North America, Mount Aconcagua in South America, Everest in Asia, Vinson Massif in Antarctica, Kosciuszko in Australia, and Puncak Jaya in Oceania.
The History of Carstensz's Naming
According to carstenszpapua.com, this peak was named after its discoverer, John Carstensz, a Dutch sailor. While sailing across the southern coast of the Arafura Sea, he observed through his telescope that a peak was almost entirely covered in snow.
In 1623, Carstensz brought this news to Europe, reporting the existence of a snow-capped mountain on the equator. However, many doubted his story, as Papua was known as a tropical region.
Carstensz Pyramid is also known as Puncak Jaya, which is short for Puncak Jayakesuma. This official name was given after Papua became part of Indonesia again, following its previous control by the Netherlands.
In 1963, when Papua officially joined Indonesia, the peak was initially named Puncak Soekarno before eventually being changed to Puncak Jaya. However, the name Carstensz is still commonly used among climbers.
Permanent Snow
Puncak Jaya is the only mountain in a tropical region that has a glacier or permanent snow. It is also part of Lorentz National Park, which has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Unfortunately, the permanent snow on Carstensz decreases gradually year by year. The Meteorology, Climatology, and Geophysics Agency (BMKG) has monitored this change for several years and warned that the "permanent snow" condition is increasingly concerning due to continuous melting.
Carstensz Climbing Route
To reach the summit of Carstensz, climbers must have proficient rock climbing skills, including basic techniques such as rappelling, fixed rope climbing, basic knot tying, and the ability to move comfortably on moderately rocky terrain.
Hari Suroto, a researcher at the Papua Archaeology Center, stated that climbing Carstensz Pyramid requires a significant financial investment due to the difficulty of accessing these mountains. "It is the only mountain in Indonesia that requires a large budget to climb," Hari Suroto told Tempo on Monday, February 22, 2021.
Climbers must take a small plane or helicopter from Timika to Sugapa, Intan Jaya. Alternatively, they can fly from Nabire to Sugapa. This snow-capped peak in a tropical region can be reached by trekking via the Sugapa route in Intan Jaya Regency, Papua, which sits at an altitude of 2,100 meters above sea level.
The Sugapa climbing route to Carstensz Pyramid starts from Ugimba Village in the Sugapa District, Soangma, or Ilaga. The round-trip trek along this route takes approximately two weeks. Reaching the summit is not as easy as it may seem. The Sugapa route is considered a challenging trek with heavy rainfall.
On the Sugapa climbing route, climbers will cross the Kemabu and Nabu River. The Kemabu River has a strong current, making this route particularly challenging. Via the Ugimba-Sugapa trail, climbers will reach the Lake Valley (Lembah Danau-Danau) after ascending and descending cliffs at the New Zealand Pass. The base camp at Lake Valley is located at an altitude of 4,261 meters above sea level.
Upon reaching the Lake Valley base camp, climbers will set up tents. At this point, it is advisable to start acclimating to the altitude, air pressure, and temperature while practicing climbing on nearby cliffs. Ice pellets typically begin to fall in the early morning at the Lake Valley base camp.
The climb to the summit of Carstensz from the Lake Valley base camp usually begins at 3:00 AM and is expected to reach the peak six hours later, around 9:00 AM. Climbers must be able to apply an 80-degree vertical climbing technique when reaching the snow-covered summit.
The First Person to Reach the Summit of Carstensz
Dutch explorer Hendrik A. Lorentz was the first person to reach the snowy area of Carstensz Mountain. In 1909, after arriving at the mountain slopes he named the Wilhelmina Mountains, no other adventurer managed to reach the summit for many years.
It was not until 1963 that Austrian climber Heinrich Harrer successfully ascended Carstensz Mountain for the first time. During this expedition, he was accompanied by three teammates: Robert Philip Temple, Russell Kippax, and Albertus Huizenga.
Philip Temple from New Zealand was highly experienced in exploring Carstensz Pyramid. He pioneered access to the mountain and mapped the route to the summit on an earlier expedition. However, he can not reach the summit due to financial and logistical constraints.
Eventually, he joined Heinrich Harrer’s team as a guide. Although Temple was instrumental in the expedition's success, Harrer is still remembered as the first climber to conquer Carstensz Pyramid.
Zacharias Wuragil and Mila Novita contributed to the writing of this article.
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