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CANTIKA.COM, Jakarta - Are you familiar with the skincare ingredient Centella Asiatica or cica that is currently trending? Don't be fooled into thinking that it is a new dermatological entity. The herbal ingredient has been used for centuries in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) due to its anti-inflammatory, soothing, and anti-aging properties.
"Cica comes from Centella asiatica, a leafy herb that has been used for generations as an edible plant and to be applied on the skin," said Julie Monti, senior director of education for Amorepacific, which owns a number of K-Beauty brands including Sulwhasoo, Laneige, and Innisfree.
Tip: Add the letter C from the front of "Centella" to "ica" at the end of "asiatica" and you will get "cica." "Centella Asiatica is a plant that is naturally found in Asia," said board-certified dermatologist Josh Zeichner, MD. "It has been shown to help reduce inflammation through its powerful antioxidant content, and help improve wound healing." With research now scientifically supporting the long-standing use of cica as a multipurpose ointment, the emergence of the ingredient in many products follows suit.
Despite being a key skincare ingredient in a number of serums, creams, and lotions from K-Beauty brands-including Dr.Jart+, Beauty of Joseon, Cosrx, and many more-cica is becoming increasingly widespread. "One of the biggest trends in skincare right now is the use of botanical extracts that naturally have powerful effects on the skin," said Dr. Zeichner.
"The proven track record of Centella asiatica in TCM and the growing body of data in Western medicine has made it a popular ingredient in Western skincare." Here, learn how to effectively use products with cica to harness its full healing potential.
Benefits of Using Products with Cica
The main benefits of products using cica include soothing sensitive or inflamed skin, repairing the skin barrier, increasing collagen production, and locking in moisture, says celebrity skincare expert Cynthia Rivas. "Centella asiatica has been present in skincare for centuries to treat wounds, soothe, hydrate, repair, and protect the skin," she said. Monti added: "Cica can help soothe and cool the skin surface and relieve irritation."
However, to get the maximum benefit from the ingredient, licensed medical esthetician Jordana Mattioli suggests paying attention to its format: "Cica works best when applied to the skin, such as in the form of a serum, essence, or lotion," she said. "I wouldn't expect much if applied in the form of a mask or cleanser."
Things to Know About Cica for Specific Skin Types
In addition to its many uses, another reason cica has become a staple in Traditional Chinese Medicine might be its versatility for various skin types. "Cica is a type of ingredient that can truly benefit all skin types due to its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties," said Mattioli.
"Sensitive or dry skin will benefit from this ingredient as a moisturizer, [someone with] acne-prone skin can seek out cica in a lightweight serum to soothe and reduce redness, and the overall chemical composition of Centella asiatica provides antioxidant benefits for all skin types."
Dr. Zeichner added that because of its ability to repair the skin's protective barrier, people with conditions like eczema or rosacea-or experiencing reactions from overuse of harsh skincare products-can also benefit. "[Centella asiatica] can be combined with other active ingredients in a single product or can be used on its own and layered with other active ingredients," he said.
Side Effects of Cica
Mattioli and Rivas agree that cica is generally safe for most people. However, like any new product you use, the best way to ensure you don't experience adverse reactions is to do a patch test. Additionally, if you are pregnant or nursing, it's best to consult with a doctor before adding a new product to your routine.
Finding Cica in Skin Care Products
If you check the ingredient list on skincare products, it's unlikely you will find the word "cica," because it is not a formal ingredient name. What you may come across is the herbal name in its longer form, Centella asiatica, but Dr. Zeichner said that's also not a sure bet. "Not all cica creams actually contain Centella asiatica as an ingredient, even if the product uses the word 'cica' in its name," he said. "Modern cica creams have become synonymous with barrier-repairing products that heal and protect the outer layer of the skin."
Rivas and Mattioli said that aside from looking for Centella asiatica or Centella asiatica extract, you can also look for the ingredients "madecassoside" or "asiaticoside," which are two active compounds derived from the Centella asiatica plant. Moni said "madecassic acid" is another way to list it on a product. Whatever its name, "it should be near the top of the ingredient list-preferably in the first 10 ingredients," added Mattioli, while reminding that the higher a certain ingredient is in the list, the stronger its concentration in the complete formulation.
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